If Hanwell has a proper centre it must be Hanwell Clock Tower, built in 1937 to mark the coronation of King George VI. Though modest as clock towers go, it has a certain appeal. It’s also popular – messages and tokens of sympathy and encouragement are occasionally found here, though sometimes it seems the clock tower itself could do with a bit of TLC.
Hanwell Clock Tower stands on a wide stretch of pavement by the crossroads, a nodal point where Boston Road and Cherington Road meet Hanwell Broadway. Beyond the clock tower is an imposing façade behind which Domino’s Pizza once kneaded and baked, but is now boarded up. I believe it was once a branch of Barclays bank. Next door is the ever-popular Clocktower Café, a nice spot on a sunny day.
Cherington Road starts with a few shops, one of which is Plaza Pianos, for all things piano, a nod to Hanwell’s musical heritage. A little further along is Hanwell Library, which re-opened in June 2021 as a volunteer-led initiative after Ealing Council passed over its day-to-day running to the local community in 2019. The exterior was used as the police station in the film Carry On Constable in 1960. Funny really, because there is/was a real police station just around the corner.
The route east from here comprises three sections of the Uxbridge Road (aka the A4020): Hanwell Broadway, then what some call Cemetery Stretch, and finally West Ealing Broadway. In the Middle Ages, the route we now call the Uxbridge Road was one of the two main ones running west from London, and used to be known as the Oxford Road turnpike. The other, more southerly route, followed an old Roman road that ran in part along what is now Brentford High Street.
Hanwell Broadway
Hanwell Broadway isn’t particularly broad and its way isn’t long, a couple of hundred yards perhaps, but it does pack a lot in. In the heyday of the horse, it boasted two coaching inns where horses, drivers and passengers could rest and get refreshment. The Kings Arms (originally the Spencer Arms) was rebuilt in 1930, and around the same time so was the nearby Duke of York. For some years the latter was in decline. The signage outside had been reduced to a mere –KE of –O– and street drinkers occupied the benches nearby. It’s great to see that under the new management the sign has been restored to its former glory and the street drinkers have moved elsewhere. Might be worth a visit to see what’s now on offer inside.
Signage now restored to its previous grandeur
Many will know that in 1960 Jim Marshall, a drummer and drum teacher, opened a shop in Hanwell in what is now Tony’s Barbers. This is commemorated by a plaque on the pavement outside. Jim started off selling drums, and then included guitars. Several customers, including The Who’s Pete Townshend, said they were looking for a guitar amp that was louder than the UK models available at the time, but not as expensive as the more powerful American imports.
So, in 1962, Jim set up Marshall Amplification. With the help of Dudley Craven and Ken Bran, he built the box of tricks that produced the world-famous Marshall sound: a distorted wail with a distinctive crunch. Hanwell became the Home of Loud.
In 1963, the Makers of Loud moved across the road to bigger premises and from then on business boomed. Jimi Hendrix, Eric Clapton (who went to school with my aunt, doncha know), Jimmy Page and Ronnie Wood were soon using Marshall gear. And the ultimate accolade – yes, it’s a Marshall amp that gets turned up to 11 in This Is Spinal Tap.
The move across the road is marked by a blue plaque above Hanwell Halal Meat & Groceries, on the corner of Cherington Road, which was a once a branch of Taplin’s Ladieswear shops. The need for yet bigger premises led Marshall to reluctantly move out of Hanwell in 1967, though some of their famous rock musician clients may well have returned to look at luxury motors when Hanwells Bentley and Rolls-Royce specialists opened in 1975.
Jim Marshall died in 2012. The following year the first Hanwell Hootie was held, and has been held each year since, though for the past couple of years it’s been affected by you-know-what. The Hootie is a one-day music festival in which live music events continue throughout the day in a host of small venues (mostly pubs).
Behind the posh car emporium there’s a Lidl and Poundstretcher, with a handy car park adjacent. This was once Hanwell Bus Garage, that closed in 1993 – On The Buses no more.
You might notice other plaques on the pavements and litter bins featuring the Hanwell phoenix. Does anyone know the story behind this emblem?
Hanwell Broadway has a good selection of shops and eateries. There are no outstanding restaurants, but no chains or franchises either, that I’m aware of, which is no bad thing. On the north side of Hanwell Broadway, the stand out stores for me are Hanwell Fishmonger, the indie local gift shop and the Post Office. Further along you have Lavin’s Bar, which opens at 9am, and our local pharmacy.
On the south side corner with Boston Road, the Fade To Black corner café is a coffee specialist with a double hit of community feel and mini minaret (the latter on the top of the building). The Hong Kong Garden Chinese takeaway was a great favourite until it closed. I found it impossible not to quietly hum the Siouxsie & The Banshees song of the same name while waiting to collect my chicken chow mein and chop suey.
A few years ago there was a very good Indian restaurant on Hanwell Broadway called Bawarchi. The owner, Balbir, was a great guy. We miss him, and his delicious seafood mix starter. When he sold up, the premises became a Polish restaurant. In an inspired piece of repurposing the new owners kept all the furniture and signage, simply changing a few letters on the shop front so it reads Bawaro. Now there’s a new sign announcing Bistro U Kucharzy – European Cousine (sic). Must visit sometime.
Near the end of the southern stretch is Gold’s Gym. It has the usual facilities, plus a swimming pool, sauna and steam rooms, and a pleasant smell. At least, it did when I used to go there. The site was once home to J Alsfords, one of the busiest timber yards in west London. Sawn wood is another lovely smell.
On the corner of the Broadway and St George’s Road is Our Lady & St Joseph Church. It was originally built in 1864 for the hundreds of Irish navvies working on grand projects like Brunel’s Wharncliffe Viaduct, and the Windmill Bridge complex over towards Southall. Up till then the nearest Roman Catholic church was miles away, in Hammersmith, I believe. Said to have been a charming traditional Victorian structure, the original St Joseph’s was demolished in 1963 and eventually replaced by the current building, described by Nicholas Pevsner as ‘a horrible jagged outline of concrete dormers’. I quite like it.
Cemetery Stretch
The new-ish mini-roundabout at the eastern end of Hanwell Broadway announces a quieter stretch of the Uxbridge Road in terms of atmosphere, if not traffic volumes. It has a muted feel with its two cemeteries and its new and not-so-new houses and flats.
On the right (naturally) is the Conservative Club, a members-only social club with a bar, garden and small hall. It holds events such as bingo, darts, ukulele and quiz nights.
Next door is the first of the cemeteries, Hanwell Cemetery, which used to be called City of Westminster Cemetery. By the entrance is a lovely old lodge of stone, next to a yew tree, and there are many conifers among the graves, tombs and statues throughout.
The entrance to the second cemetery is a bit further along on the left-hand side, past Azalea Close and Aria Mews as you head east. The Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea Cemetery also has an old stone lodge by the entrance, and a hedge-lined avenue draws you towards the chapel and the paths that weave around the memorial statues, tall trees and headstones.
The cemeteries are both fascinating and peaceful. All is still but there is much activity all the same. Mourners and gardeners go quietly about their business. Many graves have partially subsided and have leaning gravestones; a lot of work must go into maintaining them and the grounds around. The Hanwell cemeteries will be the subject of a future article.
A little further along, one of the trees that line the pavement has what looks like a door. On the opposite side of the road Michael Gaynor Close/Barchester Close is a modern-ish estate of flats. Does anyone know who Michael Gaynor is/was? I can’t find any information about him. Does he live behind the tree door?
Next time – the walk continues into West Ealing…
If you’d like to find out more about Hanwell, local historian David Blackwell has a fascinating collection of books, maps and photos, old and new, of Hanwell and neighbouring areas. They are on display at Hanwell Library on the first Saturday of each month from 10am to 3pm.
Around Hanwell and up the allotment 
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